Next, have a couple of pair of good, close-fitting work gloves--like the “Mechanix” type--and a lined pair of leather gloves, too. Steel-toed work shoes or boots? Well, they couldn’t hurt, either.

Safety, baby. Don’t leave the shop without it.

MAPP gas, a combination of liquefied petroleum and methylacetylene-propadine, can reportedly produce a flame temperature in excess of 5,300 degrees Fahrenheit. With this kind of heat, you can braze, solder, heat, flame-harden and even apply persuasion to a reluctant, rusty nut or bolt. MAPP is probably a good choice for a general service and repair contractor because applying the Big Red Wrench to a problem can sometimes save time on a job.

Propane doesn’t produce quite as hot a flame so it might be the way to go for jobs involving tubing smaller than about a half an inch in diameter. It’s also less expensive than MAPP gas, so it may be the best choice for a contractor who does a lot of sweating like a re-piping or new construction company. 

Locking-type pliers come in almost every size and configuration imaginable and  from almost as many manufacturers, but quality is the key (as with any tool you’ll be making your living with). Some of the locking pliers available can exert as much as a ton of crushing, clamping pressure on whatever it is you need to hold, or they can be adjusted to put a feather-light touch on the fragile tubing you’re trying to sweat. 

“Water pump” pliers, “channel-lock” pliers, “tongue and groove” pliers—it doesn’t matter what you call them, their value can’t be underestimated. Also available in different sizes and capacities, the key to these guys’ handiness is the fact they can be adjusted with one hand and their non-slip grips are long enough to allow you to put some serious leverage on whatever it is you’re trying to do. Another benefit is the angled "gooseneck" design helps you get them into tight places.

Let’s start off with 8-inch, 10- inch and 12-inch adjustable, “Crescent”-type wrenches for starters. You’re also going to need a 12-inch pipe wrench and its toothless cousin, a 12-inch spud wrench, to avoid leaving marks on pretty chrome parts. The pipe wrenches can be either the straight or 90-degree type (preferably both).

What about a hunk of pipe scrap to slip onto the end of these wrenches for more leverage? Forget about this idea—nobody cares how Grandpappy did it back in the day, OK? After all, Grandpappy’s nickname was “Stumpy” for a reason, you know? Use the tools correctly and safely or just…well, don’t.

Also consider acquiring a set of larger-sized Allen wrenches for those garbage disposals and then round out your assortment with socket set and a set of nut drivers. Toss in a basin wrench and you’re all set.

Let’s start with a drywall saw. Also known as a “jab” saw or a “keyhole” saw, these pointy little dudes let you poke into, and relatively surgically remove,  pieces of drywall to reveal the piping underneath.

Sometimes, though, you need to get serious. That’s why you need to have a big reciprocating saw and an assortment of wood and metal blades on your truck, too. A tubing cutter and the companion piece—a tubing reamer—will also come in very handy.

It’s also a swell idea to get yourself a high quality pocket knife or, even better, a “Leatherman”-style multi-tool. Try and choose one that comes with a carrying case you can hang onto your belt to make sure it’s always handy.